Embedded Files
The FAQs given below have been collated from the primary Bangalore Climbing Initiatives (BCI) WhatsApp group. These were questions that were asked over a period of a year.
The FAQs given below have been collated from the primary Bangalore Climbing Initiatives (BCI) WhatsApp group. These were questions that were asked over a period of a year.
Is it "fine" to do a rappel off hangers, in case of emergency ?
No. Carry Mail-ons or use Quick draw or a Carabineer. Someone else can retrieve it later. Secondly make sure to leave at least 1 QD or carabiner below the one you are rappelling off, to ensure redundancy. Clean rest of the QDs.
Is it fine to disturb / block line of sight of a climber for getting photos ?
No, climbing is a task that requires utmost concentration, especially when doing a lead climb.
On a two bolt anchor system, what is the total force per bolt for an equalized anchor ?
The total force per bolt for an "equalized" anchor is half the load.
What is the minimum cord diameter to be used as an anchor ?
6mm or above
What is the minimum nylon and spectra webbing diameter to be used as an anchor ?
For rappelling off on multi-pitches like Motherwall where length of pitch exceeds 35 metres, is it fine to use European Death knot (EDK) for joining two ropes ?
Yes, recommended for Bangalore routes where there is a high chance for the alternative to EDK, such as Double fisherman knot, to get stuck in cracks.
What is the correct way to extend quick draws ?
Do NOT clip one carabiner into another. Remove a carabineer from one end of second QD and clip in the dog bone into the carabiner from the first QD.
Can I use Alpine draws, with the sling NOT fully extended ?
It is not advisable since this can cause cross-loading of the carabiner to happen.
What is cross-loading of carabiner ?
Cross-loading is when a carabiner is loaded in the minor axis. Since the tensile strength on major axis is almost 3 times that of minor axis.
Which is the better way to rappel, extended with a sling or directly from belay loop ?
Both are equally safe. Though, according to some, extended allows for less jerky rappels and gives easier control of the friction hitch.
What is the correct location to clip in the carabiner into leg loop for holding the prusik cord ?
It is advised to use the inside of the leg loop and away from the buckle, since the carabineer might cause the buckle to get loose. This might undo the leg loop.
What is the safe and recommended way to rappel on a single rope and retrieve it to ?
Reepschnur Method.
Important: Always back up the setup with a figure of eight on a bight in the non rappelling rope, the noose of the figure of eight gets a carabiner that clips into the rappelling rope.
Which end of the quick draw goes into the hanger and which clips in the rope ?
The carabiner which is at the loose end (the carabineer has more space to move) of the dog bone goes into hanger. This is to prevent the carabiner from levering the hanger in case of fall.
Why do climbing routes have weird names ?
The climber who does the first ascent gets to name the route. Hence it depends on the climber and the local nomenclature traditions among other things.
What is pin flare or pin scar in cracks ?
How safe is Simul rappelling as a descent method ?
What is the recommended method to rappel rescue an incapacitated climber ?
Tandem rappel
What are "walking pieces" in Trad climbing ?
It refers to the fact that rope can at times cause a piece of protection to get dislodged. This can be prevented by extending the piece using QD or slings. "Due to the traversing nature of the route the piece walked out of the crack"
How to lock off a belay ?
It is an advanced skill. Please contact me to learn it or ask an experienced climber or guide.
How to anchor a lighter belayer to ground ?
Use belay loop (if using carabiner) or tie in loops (if only rope) and tie in to a ground anchor. DO NOT use haul loops or other, you risk serious injuries.
What is a dry treated rope ?
It is a rope that does not take up/absorb water. Since that cause the strength to reduce. These are more expensive than the normal ones.
When is it advised to wear a helmet ?
ALWAYS. Belaying, Lead climbing, Multi pitches, Giving unsolicited advice (in that order)
Where can I get Climbing shoes resoled in Bangalore ?
Mr Pronto does it. For more aggressive shoes contact senior climbers for contacts of skilled individuals.
Is it safe to pink point a Trad climb (pre-placed protection) ?
Yes and No. The climber should check the protection before clipping in.
What quick draw gate type should I use, key lock vs wire gate?
Both have their pros and cons.
Key Lock:
Is hook free, so will slide into bolt if not clipped in completely.
Wire Gate:
Pro -Relatively lighter, if you are carrying a lot of gear, the weight reduction will play a role.
Con - Contains a hook at the gate closing, which can get snagged while bolting in.
What kind of carabiners do I use for setting up an anchor?
It is recommended to use mini-pear locking carabiners or offset D locking carabiners. As opposed to HMS locking carabiners. You could also use oval locking carabiners.
They are the same size as those 'quick-draw' carabiners, but with straight gate and locking mechanism.
With respect to routes around Bangalore, while cleaning up a route, what is recommended rappelling or being lowered ?
Firstly, whatever you choose DO NOT do it directly on hangers. Secondly, given the rock type around Bangalore (Granite) with its sharp character, it is bad for ropes in general. Hence, rappelling down is recommended to save the rope.
Page updated
Google Sites
Report abuse